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| My Travel Diaries - Nicaragua and out
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So i believe I left last time when we had just arrived in Masaya, Nicaragua. We went for walk around and came across a small stage with children performing dances and singing to music. Totally unexpected and great fun to watch but thirst got the better of us and we headed to the smoothie cafe. In one fail swoop we managed to find the most western place in the whole of Masaya!! Good though and much needed. Then we head off to the famous local artisan markey and are shocked into just awe at the range and ammount of stuff, alas we dont buy much and go out to a local mexican restaurant for dinner. Before which though we bump into a proecession, a whole boys school a drum band , a selection of saints (children dressed up on plynths carried by men) and a wind band. All amazing and we are suddnely struck by the real religious side of Nicaragua which I havent witnessed in Costa Rica. We later find out it was for 24th May and a special saint but after that our colective religious and spanish knowledge runs out.
Next day we head to the local Volcano. Got a bus to the entrance of a park and was greeted by a very frindly Guardaparque. We optted to walk up and then promptly realised it was tarmaced all the way up. It was a beautiful walk though of about 8km. Then we go to the top to a stunning view of a huge crater, spewing out gases that thurned the rocks vibrant shades of orange and green. There are two craters at Volcan Masaya, one active and one not. We walked all the way round the non-active one, through a group of vultures who roost on the steepest side of the crater. It was amazing to see them all fly up at once, nearly a thousand or so i would guess. Big black birds withe no feathers on their head, i forget their name but will remember sometime.
We came down, had a lovely picnic and then went on a tour of the larva tunnels, at the bottom of thwe volcano. Very interesting and a good chance to see bats. We left just as the rain started and luckly managed to get t alift back down to the INteramericana where we got a bus back to masaya. Picked up our big bags and jumped on a bus to Granada. It was a private bus and so charged us a fortune but put us right outside our hostel. Which was lovely, quiet with a huge dorm.
Next day Livvie and I go to meet the leader of the housing project, Casas de Espernza. He tells us he'll come pick us up and for the first time in weeks we have dead time, waiting on someone else. Its an odd feeling. But i get stuck into my book and actually enjoy it but typically just as i was settling down into my plans for the next couple of weeks, he appears. He's nice but there are two other volunteers from Spain and so the conversation is in rapid spanish, which reassuringly livvie cant understand either! We sit in a internet cafe and hear al about the project and we quickly realise that its not very organised. Which is summed up when he asks us what we what to do next! We look back confused and say go to the project! So we get a taxi to the cemetary and walk 3km up a dirt road strewn with litter and potholes big enough for houses, along the way we meet lots of children who all greet us politely and there's a stunning view of another volcano all the way. We find some concrete houses which we decide must be the porject and enter with intrepidation. We find one girl teaching english to another volunteer and a few others waiting around a huge hole they're digging for a septic tank.
It transpires we have arrived just in time for lunch, beans and rice, how could it be anything else!! We get talking to a few of them and it becomes aparrent to us that a week is simply not enough time to get anything worthwhile or give anything worthwhile to the project. We walk back with some other volunteers and after we drop them at their hostal, Livvie and I come to a unanimous decision that a week commitment is not long enough but its all we can give. So we find the leader still in the internet cafe and tell him, doesnt seem too upset . So we go for a walk aound Granada and climb a couple of church spires. From the second one I stand and watch the thunderstorm approach, over the lake and towards the volcano, strangely beautiful. I arrive at the church during a service and for the first time in a while sit in on a service. Cant understand a word but the quiet, calm and friendliness of all the people makes it a great place to shelter from the rain.
That night we go out for the nicest meal yet, in a restaurant with a real ambiance. The best falafel ever.
The next day we walk around Granada some more and take photos of the most beautiful and alive city we've been in. We leave around midday and head to San Jorge (pronounced Hor-hey) and get the bus to Isla Ometepe, in the middle of lake Nicaragua. After the boat we get a bus to El Zopilote. An organic farm with a hostal attched. A truelly remote location on the side of a volcano populated by hippies from all walks of life. From those volunteering to work there for 3 months to those just using the hostal and have stayed for a month. We arrive after a long walk with full packs in the rain woth no waterproof, having still failed to replace mine.
We're just in time for homemade wood fired pizza. Easily the best since Hannah and I made some in the bread oven in wales almost exactly a year previously! A good nights sleep in the dorm made entirely of wood and waking up to the sun rise across my face and the soud of birds. Paradise. The others go off for a day out to go kayaking but i felt like a homey day! So i spent it talking with and watching the other guys who are making everything from shoes to bracelets and all forms of jewellery. Its so relaxing, just a shame its raining. The others get back mid afternoon and we decide to go to the local vegetarian restaurant that night as its our last night togther, as hannah goes across the lake tomorow and livie and yurian go diving. We set off in the light and walk for a good 40mins but cant find it..Upon asking a local it turns out its shut tonight!! So we trudge back in the rain abuy food and cook in the kitchen, more pasta and tomato sauce for me!
They leave early the next morning and its strange but sort of nice to be left behind! I spend a day exploring the area. The rain gets torrential in the afternoon and we learn that there's a hurricane warning for the whole of central america and so there ar no more ferries that day. In a strange turn of events we manage to get internet at the project and find out that it should blow itself out by nightfall. In fact the afternoon and evening are beautifully clear with views of the mainland even! I have another pasta meal and watch the sun set from my bed! The girl on the bunk below me, is from the states and has been on a study abroad program in Managua. She's lovely, and called Kayleigh.
The morning of 30th May we both leave along with many other people from Zopilote. On the way down the path we bump into hannah coming the other way. She couldnt get her boat tp the otherside of the lake due to the hurricane ad didnt want to wait until monday to get the next one so shes coming with me back to masaya to get presents and then on to costa rica. Its a beautifully hot sunny day and we get the open top boat back, all the westerners on the top sunbathing!! We peal off and Kayleigh, Hannah and I are left to get the managua bus, with Hannah and I getting off in Masaya. Its a nervous journey while we hop that they will actually stop in Masaya as the guy keeps shouting Managua only whne we stop. We get there. The buses are comparatively stressful here compared to CR. We gee there and its nice to be able to refuse the offer of taxis with the knowledge that we know exactly where we are going. We walk the 8 blocks back inot the centre and decide to check out the other hostels in case and find one right next the one we stayed in last time we were here for only $5 anight for both of us!! So ew take it adnd enjoy the shower after s short shopping trip during which the consumerism of it all makes me lose the will to live!! So we come back use the internet and just as im walking out i bump into olivia and Yurian! It seems the world is conspiring to stop us splitting up!! So we have dinner together and it turns ou that they have had a hugely insane day. Having travelled since 5.30 that morning and been to one reossort wheer they couldnt dve and then coming back all the way here as thyn thought i'd be there!
This is the most up to date my blog has been in a while and dinner of pasta and tomoto sauce is caling me!
sez
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