How not to get robbed or killed in Naples

On my way from Rome to Sicily I decided to stop in the city of Naples for a couple of days, using it as a base for day trips to Pompeii and Sorrento. A couple of weeks prior to my visit I watched the news on TV talking about a strike of the garbage workers in Naples and how the city is piling up on rubbish and else. Interesting, I thought, nearly canceling my reservation for Naples and wanting to skip it at all. But a few days later, CNN and other broadcasters announced the end of the strike. So, I had no reason not to visit the city known for serving the best Pizzas in the world.

Before I start telling you about my trip to Naples, I would like to tell, that I think of me as an experienced traveler. I visited 137 countries on this planet in all 5 continents for work and or holidays. I slept under bridges, in tents, ruins, 1-5 star hotels, hostels. I used every kind of transport from hitching to flying. I never judge a place because of its culture or religion or because of the fact where I come from or where I grew up. I judge a city or country on the information it gave me before I visit it, and on the fact what the country is offering me.

In my point of view, you take in the first impressions of a city when you arrive at the train station and walk out of it, exploring the first yards of surrounding area. I soak in the air, the vibes and look around me.
When I got into Naples, I had to walk 200 yards from the train station to the bus stop so I could catch the bus to the place I had a reservation. During this short walk, (I had my backpack and day bag on me) local businessmen were walking beside me, offering new laptops and cell phones to, I must say, very interesting prices. If I wouldn’t have had my own laptop and phone with me, I would have been very interested in taking one of those offers, making the local Mafia richer than it properbly already is. 10 years ago the same businessmen offered watches and postcards, well, how times changed.

So I climbed into the R2 bus, which was taking me 7 stops toward my accommodation in Naples, just to find out, that there are other businessmen who are using the crowded bus to make a living in their own way. They stand right beside you, very close and hold a jacket and try to take your wallet out of your pants. Funny, seeing a hand with the destination wallet written all over it coming out of a simply not worn jacket towards your jeans pocket.
Not interested getting involved here, I was glad when I got of the right bus stop, because I was not able to count to 7 anymore, I was busy protecting my stuff.
I checked in and decided to explore the city at once, leaving everything behind but a few €uro and my cell phone.
If you are reading this and if you have been to Naples I want to congratulate you. Why? Because you are alive! I would not be surprised if I would see tourists walking around wearing T-shirts with the words “I survived Naples!” written on it.

For those who haven´t been to Naples, I would like to explain.
A pedestrian is worth nothing there. You are the lowest form of life taking part in the universe of traffic. You have no rights. You have just one thing. Yourself! You are alone, facing thousands of cars and scooters, hundreds of busses and trucks. And pedestrian crossings with no traffic lights and drivers who do not care if there is a Xing sign for two legged life forms.
Even walking on the side walk, you will be honked at by a woman riding on her scooter being annoyed by you walking in front of her. I stood at a Xing point in Naples and waited. I am ashamed of myself, because I waited for a local to show me how to handle this. I followed an elderly man walking crossing the street. I have been hiding behind him. Because I was scared. Two hours later I waited for nothing. Nobody came to guide me through traffic. So, brave as one could be, I decided to cross the street on my own.
Do you know how it is when a car is driving over your toes? The feeling you get inside your shoe? The “That can’t be that that just happened to me!” feeling inside your body? I need to add, that the car was a Smart, thank god. A Smart is one of the smallest cars you will find on this planet. And, my toes were all intact, thanks to my hiking boots. But still, the burning feeling was a reminder not to push your luck in the traffic of Naples.

There was still garbage in the streets. I am not sure if the TV stations were lying to me, or if the amount of dirt and rubbish on the street was normal. I do know that this is one of the busiest cities in Italy. One of the noisiest. And where everyone, sitting behind a wheel or on a scooter is cursing at everybody who is crossing his way. It is a city, where you can not enjoy being a tourist, because you are constantly forced to watch your life and valuables. So, screw that famous pizza and stay somewhere outside Naples. Sorrento, for example. Plan your trips from there and spent a few hours in Naples so you can say “I survived Naples!”