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Imagine, if you will, a darkened river embanked on either side by a stone wall. Ancient buildings, similar in style to Spanish haciendas, sit 10 metres from the bank. They once housed merchants from Holland, Japan and India and have been restored so that they stand proud in the dim street light. A bridge straddles the two banks. On here we stand and listen to the strains of...Irish folk music.
This week has truly been one of contrasts. After leaving that lovely hotel on Cat Ba island, that evening we found ourselves in the top bunks of a cramped hard-sleeper cabin which we shared with a noisy local family. Lovely though they were I had kind of hoped that they would quieten down once the lights went off. They didn't.
Slightly frazzled to say the least, the next morning we were met at Hue station by a uniformed representative of our next hotel who proceeded to help us and our luggage into a taxi (paid for by said hotel). Upon arrival we were met with a chilled glass of water and smiles all around. Our room was huge, had every mod con (including it's own computer which means that I should have a Mongolia video ready soon) and spotless.
Decidely cooler, we headed back into the heat to explore the old citadel which sits in the centre of Hue. Built in 1804 this place looks a little run down, due in part to bombing by the French and Americans and partly due to the occasional typhoon. Some buildings had been well-preserved but it was so hot, and we had seen so many old buildings, that I'm afraid to say that we were left slightly unimpressed.
The next day, however, was much better. On a boat trip down the very wide river which runs through Hue, we were talen first to a 400 year-old pagoda. Around this was built, yes you guessed it, a temple. But this was no ordinary temple. This was where the monk Thích Quảng Đức departed for Saigon where, upon arrival, he set himself alight in protest against the then-governments harsh treatment of reigious freedom. There is a famous picture of him in the midst of flames with the car he arrived in behind. This very same ca. was displayed at the temple and it provided a very poignant epitath.
Further downstream was some tombs which housed the remains of emporers. Some were particularly grand with pagodas, lakes and statues, these last created to accompany the deceased into the after-life. One particular tomb was surrounded by buildings which loomed out from the forest. Once again very hot and covered in sweat we were grateful to arrive back to the oasis of our hotel that night.
The road between Hue and Hoi An, our next destination, passed through paddy fields, over forested hills and past wide sandy beaches. Paying about $30/night for a room we once again found ourselves in another luxurious hotel. I'm not sure we are backpacking in the strictest sense of the word. Close by to the town is a beach with hazy hills in the far distance to one side and a few tiny islands on the other. The sea, slightly cooler than Halong Bay, provided welcome respite from the heat.
On our second day here we trawled through the museums, historic houses and temples of this ancient place. Out in the street is the typical noise of bikes, banter and bartering, inside the buildings it is cool, dark and incense infused, redolent of those days when trade made this the most important port in the country.
And so we come to that night where we stand on the bridge gazing on all of this whilst the Irish ditty echoes through streets which are so badly lit that it is possible to see most of the galaxy up above. The source of the music was a small concert held in front of an ornate bridge built by the Japanese centuries ago. The purpose of the concert was to raise money for agent orange victims; one of the mny tragic results of the Vietnam War which raged not so far from here. Songs from this era, such as 'Blowin' in the Wind', were also on the bill.
The music, escpecially the Irish tune about some poor bloke dying in WWI, was about as big of a contrast as you could imagine in this distant, exotic town which, with beaches and history all mixed in together, is a little melting pot of all that's best about Vietnam. |
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Posted by ollyoverlandandsea on 2008-06-28 00:22:36 | Rating: | Views: 49
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